A weekend in Cappadocia (without the early-morning regret)

Cappadocia is the rare destination where the famous thing — the hot air balloon at sunrise — is also the best thing. Don't skip it.

But you can do it on day two, not day one. Arrive late afternoon, eat dinner with a glass of local Kalecik Karasi, and sleep. Day two is the balloon, then a long brunch, then Goreme open-air museum on a quiet afternoon.

Day three is the underground city of Kaymakli followed by a drive through the Ihlara valley. Stop at Selime monastery — it's where the most cinematic exterior of the region is, and somehow no one is ever there.

Sleep in a real cave hotel, not a "cave-style" hotel. The difference is the year — pre-1923 originals have a cool, even temperature year-round; post-2010 imitations have plug-in space heaters.